TUXEDO 101
HOW CAN I CHOOSE FROM SO MANY TUXEDO MODELS
AVAILABLE?
What are the different lapel
styles available?
When you break down a tuxedo, it becomes easier to find the right
one for you. The lapel style is one of the easiest ways to distinguish
a tuxedo from another. Typically, a tuxedo will have one of three
lapel styles: a notch, a peak, or a shawl. The three styles are
considered traditional and can be used in any occasion (wedding,
graduation, black tie affairs, cruises, etc..). Other lapel styles
are also available. Keep in mind that your choice of lapel style
should be base on personal preferences. If you are having trouble
choosing a lapel style, the following facts can help you decide.
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Notch Lapel
Today, the notch lapel is the most popular choice. The notch
lapel is characterized by a V shaped indentation in the collar
similar to the one found on a suit lapel. |
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Peak Lapel
The peak is the original classic lapel. The upward broad V-shaped
lapel is designed to give the appearance of larger shoulders
on smaller statures. |
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Shawl Lapel
The smooth and rounded lapels give a slimmer look. The shawl
lapel was originally designed to fit men with wide shoulders.
It’s clean lines are associated with elegance and high
style. |
Other Lapels
Some of the more contemporary tuxedos have totally different
looks. While being non-traditional, they are considered fashionable
in today’s formalwear market. Other lapel types available
include the mandarin collar, the winged collar, the top collar
or no collar. Take a look at these tuxedos. |
What are the different materials
used?
Polyester / Polywool Blend
These are the most affordable tuxedos. The fabric is not very soft
but it is durable. This type of tuxedo is often used for waiter
uniforms or musicians in orchestras.
100% Worsted / Burlington Wool
This is the most common tuxedo fabric. Most rental companies use
tuxedos made out of 100% worsted wool fabric because it is softer
than polyester but still very durable and affordable. It usually
has approximately 60 threads per square inch.
Super 80, Super 100 and super 120
Theses are the finest tuxedos available. They are also made of wool
but finer wool is used. Super 80 means there are 80 threads per
square inch, which results in a softer, lighter fabric. Super 100
means 100 threads per square inch and, you guessed it, Super 120
has 120 threads per square inch. The higher the number, the higher
the quality but also the price.
Single Breasted Vs Double Breasted?
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Single Breasted
A single-breasted suit buttons directly in front of the suit.
It can be worn buttoned or unbuttoned and has a less “bulky”
look. |
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Double Breasted
A double-breasted suit has a flap that crosses over the front
to button on the right side of the suit. Contrary to the single
breasted suit, the double breasted suit must be buttoned at
all times. Men with thinner builds tend to wear tuxedo to make
them look a bit bigger. |
How do I choose the number of buttons on
my tuxedo?
1 to 3 Buttons
These are the traditional tuxedos. The shorter gentlemen should
consider the 1-3 button styles as oppose to taller men who can choose
any other style.
4 to 6 Buttons
You can achieve a more contemporary look with these tuxedos. The
lapels will be shorter to leave room for the buttons. They are recommended
for the taller gentlemen, especially the ones with a thin built.
Which would best suit my body type?
The following section gives insights on styles that would suit
a certain body type. However, these are just suggestions. You are
not restricted to the styles mentioned. Choose a style that suits
your personal tastes rather than what century old etiquettes dictate.
Short and Strong
Try a notch or a shawl lapel tuxedo. The shawl would create a streamline
effect, thus giving you a slimmer look. A single- breasted tuxedo
would look best. A 1 to 3 button tuxedo is recommended.
Short and Slender
We suggest choosing a notch or peak tuxedo. The notch looks great
on everyone. The peak accentuates the width of shoulder size giving
a more robust look. We also suggest choosing a single breasted tuxedo
with 1 to 3 buttons, as previously mentioned, 4 to 6 buttons look
better on taller gentlemen.
Tall and Strong
A notch or a shawl lapel would look best on you. We suggest avoiding
double-breasted tuxedos because they tend to give a bulkier look.
Take a look at our Rheingold Fashions’ collection. They specialize
in making tuxedos designed for muscular men.
Also, a gentleman with a large neck should consider a lay down
shirt with a bow tie or a 4-in-hand tie. We highly recommend not
to wear a wing-tipped shirt and a euro-tie (thin tie) as they would
not look flattering on you.
Tall and Slender
Your choice is unlimited; you can wear either the notch, peak or
shawl lapel style. Your type of body allows you to wear any type
you want. We suggest trying the trendier 4 to 6 button styles. If
you want to look a bit bulkier, try a double-breasted tuxedo.
Will my tuxedo still be in style in the years
to come?
The peak and the notch lapels are timeless classics, this said,
they will remain the most popular styles in the years to come. When
it comes to the number of buttons found on the front of the tuxedo,
a 4 to 6 button tuxedo is currently considered “trendy”
as oppose to the 1 to 3 button judged to be of a classier look.
Should you eventually find your tuxedo to be outdated, you can always
update/change your look with new and more fashionable vests and
accessories, the tuxedo and trousers remaining the same, you keep
costs down.
What’s the difference between a tuxedo
and a suit?
Three major elements differentiate a tuxedo from a suit. First,
the jacket lapels of the tuxedo are satin covered as oppose to the
suit lapels that are usually made of the same material as the rest
of the jacket. Secondly, unlike regular suit pants, tuxedo trousers
generally have a satin stripe going down the outer leg. Thirdly,
a tuxedo requires you to wear a pair of high-glossed (shinny) patent
leather shoes.
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WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE DIFFERENT
SHIRTS OFFERED?
There are many subtle differences in the shirts available on the
market today. Most styles can be worn at any occasion, except maybe
for “White tie affairs” which require you to wear a
pique style shirt.
Shirts come in a variety of collars, cuffs, materials and pleats.
Pleats are “folds” in the front of the shirt. They come
in 1/8 inch ¼ inch, ½ inch intervals. The choice of
pleats is entirely up to you since all types are suitable for any
occasion.
What are the types of collars available?
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Wingtip
This is the style to choose for the classic tuxedo look. A bow
tie looks best on this type of shirt but you can also wear a
4-in-hand tie or an ascot. |
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Lay Down
Lay down shirts are the most popular style today. The
collar is no different than a regular dress shirt’s collar.
A 4-in-hand tie is usually worn with this shirt but you can
also wear a bow tie, an ascot, a euro-tie or a cravat. |
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Mandarin
Mandarin shirts, though not often used, can give you a completely
different look. Since there is no collar to hold up any neckwear,
you must wear a button cover to complete the mandarin look.
Please note, the plastic button cover provided with the shirt
is not enough, you will need a silver or gold button cover (matching
the rest of your jewellery) since it is in a very visible area. |
What are the different fabrics used?
Shirts come mainly in 3 materials.
• Polyester fabric: least expensive, light and comfortable.
• 100% cotton fabric: most expensive, heavy, soft and most
durable.
• Poly/cotton blend fabric: most popular choice (type of shirt
you find in a formal wear rental store), combines the soft feel
of cotton with the lightness of polyester at nearly half the price
of a 100% cotton shirt.
What is the difference between French cuffs,
barrel cuffs and convertible cuffs?
Barrel cuff is the type of cuff you usually have on your regular
suit shirt (when tied, the cuff forms a barrel around your wrist.
French cuffs are when the shirt’s cuffs need to be folded-
up together in order to be tied. Convertible cuffs, as the name
says, can be worn as French or barrel cuffs.
French cuffs are usually worn to give a classier look. French
cuffs are mostly found on 100% cotton shirts while convertible cuffs
are generally found in a poly/cotton blend or polyester shirts.
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IS THERE ANYTHING I SHOULD KNOW ABOUT VESTS?
Available in either single or double-breasted styles, a vest can
be worn with almost any tuxedo ensemble. There are two types of
vests: Open-back (or vented-back) and Full-back. Open-back vest
only have a band going around the neck and another fastened across
the back. Open-back (or vented-back) vests are generally cheaper
then full-back vests, however, they are not recommended for someone
intending to remove his jacket at some point during the event. In
general, people choose the full-back vest for its flexibility. On
the other hand, if attending a “white tie affair”, a
Pique white open-back vest is recommended. Vests come in a variety
of colors and patterns, with or without lapels. To complement a
vest, you may choose to wear a bow tie, ascot, cravat or 4-in-hand
tie.
If you prefer the traditional look, you may opt for a cummerbund
(a type of satin belt which covers the waist area) instead of a
vest. Cummerbunds are usually worn with bow ties and come in a variety
of colors. Vests remain, however, a much more popular choice (only
1 per cent of people choose cummerbunds).
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WHAT ARE MY CHOICES WHEN IT COMES TO NECK
WEAR?
Bow tie: The bow tie is the most familiar element
of a formal ensemble. The bow tie should match the vest and cummerbund
(same color/pattern). Bow ties are usually made of satin and are
available in a wide range of colors and patterns, from stripes to
florals. Consider purchasing one black bow tie to give you the ability
to diversify your look at a minimal cost. The color of the groomsmen's
bow-ties and cummerbunds are most often coordinated to match the
bridesmaids' dresses.
4-in-hand tie: These ties are similar to business
ties, except for the fact that they are made of a more formal fabric.
The 4-in-hand usually matches the vest. The 4-in-hand tie has made
a big comeback in the recent years, rivalling the bowtie as the
most popular neckwear option.
Ascot: The ascot is a double-knot tie with wide
ends that folds over the chest and is fastened with a stick pin.
The ascot tie is usually worn with winged-collar tuxedo shirt to
accessorize ultra-formal morning suit.
Cravat: The cravat is a slightly shorter yet broad
tie. Although not very popular, the cravat can provide you with
an original look.
Button cover: A button cover is a decorative,
circular ornament, resembling a cufflink or a large stud that snaps
onto the top button of a mandarin-collar shirt. It serves as an
alternative for traditional neckwear.
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WHAT DO YOU MEAN BY STUDS AND CUFFLINKS?
Cufflinks are ornaments that links both side of a tuxedo shirt’s
cuff together. On the other hand, studs look like tiny cufflinks
and replace buttons on a formal tuxedo shirt. Studs and cufflinks
usually are come together (also known as tuxedo jewellery sets).
The studs and cufflinks’ settings come in 2 colors (gold and
silver), but the inset within the stud and cufflink come in a large
variety of colors. Your jewellery should match your date’s
jewellery. If wearing a button cover instead of the standard neckwear,
the button cover should match the studs and cufflinks.
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WEDDINGS:
Who should be wearing a tuxedo?
Groom, Best Man & Groomsmen
They are the most important male element in the wedding party. Since
the bride will have a very formal dress and the bride’s maids
will be wearing matching dresses, the men should be wearing tuxedos.
Ushers
Ushers should wear tuxedos. Wedding pictures look better if everyone
is dressed formal. Ushers are among the first people of the wedding
party that attendees will see when arriving, therefore, they should
look their best. As they say, the first impression is the most important
one.
Ring Bearer
This one is at the discretion of the wedding party. Children’s
size in tuxedos can be hard to find but it can add a nice touch
to the ceremony.
Father of Bride & Father of Groom
The fathers usually do, but it's really up to each wedding party
to decide. The general rule is that if one father wears a tuxedo,
they both should wear tuxedos.
Who pays for the tuxedos?
Each of the men usually pays for his own tuxedo rental. On occasion,
a member of the wedding party who is feeling particularly generous
may decide to pay for all the tuxedos, this may very-well be his
gift to the bride and groom.
Does the groom usually wear something different?
Yes. Here are a few suggestions. The groom can wear a white vest
and white tie while the rest of the wedding party wears something
with colors and patterns (they should still match the brides maids’
dresses). If the bride is wearing a colored wedding dress, the groom
could wear accessories (vest / tie / handkerchief) matching the
bride’s colors while the best man and groom’s men could
be wearing black vests (or cummerbunds) and ties. Another option
is having the groom wear the same style as the rest of the wedding
party but with a tailcoat. The choice is yours.
Should the groom buy his tuxedo?
More and more men are buying their tuxedos these days. As formal
events are becoming more popular, the number of events (proms, weddings,
formal requiring a tuxedo is increasing. This said, the cost of
purchasing a tuxedo is only 2 to 3 times the cost of renting, it
comes to reason that if you plan on attending 3 or more event requiring
a tuxedo within the next 10-15 years, buying is, without a doubt,
the best option.
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WHAT TO WEAR FOR A BLACK/WHITE TIE AFFAIR,
PROM OR CRUISE?
Black Tie Optional (or Black Tie Preferred)
If you have received an invitation with the words “Black
tie optional”, it is not mandatory for you to wear a tuxedo
but chances are there will be more people wearing tuxedos than suits
at the event. If you choose to wear a suit, wear a dark suit with
a black tie. If your date is wearing an evening gown, wear a tuxedo.
You can never be overdressed in these events.
Black Tie Required (or Black Tie Invited)
In this event, you have been asked to wear a tuxedo. However,
you are not limited to wearing a black tie as the name suggests.
You must wear a black tuxedo but you can accessorize it with colourful
vests / cummerbund, tie / bowtie and handkerchief.
White Tie Affairs
If the invitation says “white tie”, you have been
invited to the ultimate in terms formal events. You are required
to wear a very specific ensemble. A black full dress tuxedo (tailcoat)
with matching trousers must be worn along with a white piqué
wingtip shirt, vest, black patent shoes and a white tie or bowtie.
The guests are distinguished only by their boutonnières.
Proms
Tuxedos4less offers a large selection of tuxedos and accessories.
Each year there is a new hot style that everybody wants to wear.
We have the latest and hottest designer styles available such as
the Perry Ellis 3 button notch, the Fumagalli’s 6 button notch
and many more!
For proms, the tuxedo etiquette does not apply. Choose the style
you are most comfortable with or have a look at our section entitled
“How can I choose from so many tuxedo models available?”.
Cruises
Cruises often offer or require at least one night of formal attire.
Appropriate tuxedos for cruises include any black tuxedo excluding
tails. White or ivory dinner jackets also make an excellent cruise
option. However, since you are gone for one or two weeks, renting
a tuxedo will be quite expensive. In fact, most formalwear specialists
charge a 50 to 100% surcharge on the rental price. In these cases,
it would be economical to purchase a tuxedo since the purchase price
is usually two to three times the rental price and this allows you
to be ready for your next event requiring a tuxedo.
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